Walking Tour

The Most Magical Indie Bookshops in All the (NYC) Land

A tour of NYC's loveliest, enchanting (and, alas, endangered) independent bookstores. Visit them, plus nearby coffee and drink nooks where you enjoy your new read, for a spiritual cleanse.

Book This

Written by Danielle Murphy
July 12, 2017

The independent bookstore has long been considered a sacred institution in the eyes of many New Yorkers. Without them, where else would Harry have met Sally (again)? Would Shopgirl and NY152 ever have had their happy ending? More important, where else would you receive the special care and individual attention that a local bookseller provides? After all, the owners of Barnes & Noble don’t personally call to let you know when your favorite author’s latest work is available.

Unfortunately, though, the age of technology, mega chain stores, and the e-book have put our local brick-and-mortar shops in peril; New York City’s most beloved independent bookstores have been slowly disappearing throughout the boroughs (RIP BookCourt).

So we’ve put together a list of the city’s must-visit indie bookshops, from secondhand cookbook sellers to brand-new neighborhood gems established by bestselling authors. Patronize them before they’re turned into more Chases and Rite Aids.

We also paired each bookshop with its perfect (and close-by) eating and drinking match, because a good hardcover deserves some food (and drink) for thought. Read on below.

We want to help you break out of your comfort zone and expand your horizons (we love the Strand, too, but it’s not the only indie bookstore in town). Editor Danielle Murphy browsed, flipped, and sipped her way through our picks for the best mom-and-pop bookshops, plus the coffee shops, bakeries, and bars where you can get to know your new read.

1. West Village

Three Lives & Company
Step through the red double doors of this small corner bookshop at 10th and Waverly and you’re immediately welcomed with the comforting smells of fresh-pressed book pages, frayed Persian rugs, and weathered leather couches. Thousands of books are squeezed into every shelf and crevice, and towering stacks block the floor-to-ceiling windows; I couldn’t see or hear the street life outside, which made the shop feel encompassing and mysterious. With no genre markers to be found, I navigated each section blindly—starting in fiction and eventually stumbling upon everything from memoir and poetry to culinary, history, and language. Don’t let the size of this place fool you; tiny surprises materialized at every turn, including a couple of novels autographed by their writers—I found Bill Hayes’s John Hancock in his memoir Insomniac City, which he called a celebration of the “evanescent and the unexpected” of life in NYC. And the unexpected certainly rounded out my evening as I watched a staff member happily pull out a couple of dog treats for a customer who strolled in with her Labrador retriever.

Van Leeuwen Artisan Ice Cream
We all know a piping hot cup of tea or coffee pairs nicely with a good book (along with a plushy love seat), but how about replacing that caffeine fix with something a little sweeter? Walk 20 steps across the street and you’ll find yourself at this cozy artisanal ice cream shop, where you can read your new experimental fiction and taste experimental flavors (vegan turmeric palm sugar cookie, anyone?). Although tempting, I wouldn’t recommend braving a three-scooper—no one wants mint chocolate chip stains on her brand-new hardcover.

2. East Village

Bonnie Slotnick Cookbooks
For those of you looking to unleash your inner Julia Child, there’s only one place in NYC to help you brush up on your culinary skills—Bonnie Slotnick’s den of cookbooks, kitchen guides, and cuisine-inspired magazines. Thousands of books of all shapes and sizes are wrapped in dust jackets and categorized according to country or type of food. I randomly opened David Scott’s Traditional Arab Cookery and discovered scribbling on every page; I realized that most of the books were lovingly used by previous home chefs. Flipping through them was like peeking into a complete stranger’s family history. A hodgepodge of organized boxes and coffee cans filled with old recipes clutter the cupboards, reminding me of my own Italian grandmother’s kitchen. Long tables placed in the middle of the room are littered with antique cooking tools, patterned aprons, and beautifully crafted, delicate dishes. Standing behind the register was Bonnie Slotnick herself, having an animated conversation with a customer about the cookbook he was purchasing. I had the feeling there was no food-related topic she didn’t have a thorough knowledge of, and you’d feel the same if you heard the comprehensive five-minute lesson she gave me on the history of baking powder.

Coffee Project
If you’re in the mood for a serious pick-me-up, walk over to this innovative coffee shop—not to mention a sanctuary for those on Team Book (it has a strict no-laptop policy). The menu includes an overwhelming amount of java—from espresso and macchiatos to misugari and nitro flights. Being the coffee newbie that I am, I ordered by Instagram standards rather than taste. And the deconstructed latte (dine-in-only, three-step drink) didn’t let me down on either front. Next time I’ll have to try the “happy drink” that caught my eye (espresso poured into iced sparkling water and topped with whipped cream).

3. Greenpoint

Word
There’s a lot more than meets the eye at this Brooklyn literary establishment. If you look closely, “Stay Woke” is stained onto the sidewalk in red spray paint, signed by the Clinton supporter group I Feel Like Hillz. Splashed across the store window, a quote from writer and activist Audre Lorde—”I am deliberate and afraid of nothing”—reads front and center. The shop’s name is not simply a play on words, but rather an example of how significant these written representations can be—whether they be in a political essay or children’s book.

For such a modestly sized shop, the amount of genres and merchandise available is astounding. The back right corner houses a kids’ section and skinny shelves for a wide-ranging selection of cards, notepads, and wall decals. The middle aisles keep fiction separated from the graphic novels, and on the far left, a swift transition to government, cooking, and science. But what makes Word stand out among the rest of NYC’s medley of indie bookstores? Four words: Gilmore Girls Book Group. You can transport yourself to Stars Hollow once a month and discuss some of the most prominent books featured in the show—plus you get a 10 percent discount on your copy. Now excuse me as I go find the Rory to my Lorelai and get started on this reading list.

Bú din
It’s no Luke’s Diner, but this café around the corner would definitely be Jesse-approved. Chic coffeehouse by day, happy-hour haunt by night, Búdin offers versatility, a place to relax, and a damn good chai latte. The Nordic-style shop features a limited selection of roasts and tea, but also boasts a nice variety of drinks supplied by local wineries and breweries. This simple, modern hub is ideal for the freelancer, work-from-homer, or the bookworms trying to fit in those last 40 pages on their lunch break.

4. Fort Greene

Greenlight
I couldn’t help but feel like I was part of something special within the community from the moment I walked into this Fort Greene gem. Regular patrons easily struck up conversations with the employees (as if they were picking up from where they left off during their last visit), a young girl was fighting with her mother in the kids’ section because she didn’t want to leave, and I believe I was the only one in the long checkout line who responded “no” when asked if I was part of the shop’s rewards program (and, yes, I signed up). Clean, white shelves occupy the middle of the room, filled to the brim with books so perfectly organized, I imagined an alarm would sound if one is moved out of its alignment. Quirky chairs with spines made from shovel handles mark the beginning of a small gardening section, and I found the perfect reading nook by the history texts in the back where I wouldn’t be disturbed. I’d be remiss not to mention the First Editions Club, which provides members with six months of fiction hardcovers chosen by Greenlight’s experts, all of them signed by their respective authors and shipped straight to your door.

Baba Cool
Reminiscent of a charming Southern bistro, this cool café has all the trimmings to be your new routine reading locale. Take a seat at the bar and enjoy the frittata of the day or nosh on some roasted cauliflower with one hand while marking your page in Jeanette Walls’s The Glass Castle with the other. After devouring my tasty baba asada (scrambled eggs, white cheddar, brisket, avocado, and arugula), I made sure to relax in the sun in one of Baba’s rocking chairs parked right out front.

5. Cobble Hill

Books Are Magic
A long time ago (May 2017) in a place far, far way (Cobble Hill), an enchanting shop opened its dome-shaped doors in hopes of becoming the “friendliest bookstore in Brooklyn.” After only a couple of weeks, Books Are Magic is well on its way. The magic here lies in the details: faded pink walls, oversize lightbulbs hung by colorful cords, hidden reading hangouts built into the walls, and potted plants that look as if they’re sprouting from the spines of books. Visiting this place is almost as much of an adventure as the many stories it holds. The back of the shop opens up into a high-ceilinged area where bean bags are spread across the floor next to a large brown leather couch, on which I sat down to flip through a couple pages of the latest Emma Straub (the author who also happens to own the store!) I had just picked up.The next time I head back it will be for one of the grown-up Story Time events, hour-long sit-downs with up-and-comers and well-known authors.

Cafe Luluc
Open since 2001, this family-owned French bistro has been killing the breakfast, lunch, and dinner games with its popular weekly specials. Its most-raved about: Drunch, a Monday-to-Friday favorite that includes an appetizer, main course, and dessert for less than two Hamiltons. Maybe it’s the Jersey girl in me, but I was feeling some old-school diner vibes with the large menu selection, cash-only rule, and convenient late-night hours. What I didn’t expect was the garden area hidden in the back, where you can hang out for hours reading, eating, and admiring the hand-drawn murals. And if you’re looking for a little bit more magic in your day, the pancakes are the fairy dust on top.

6. Soho

Housing Works Bookstore
Have any old books or DVDs lying around your apartment? This downtown bookstore will be happy to take them off your hands. At Housing Works, 100 percent of the profits from the merch—books, movies, vinyl, and more—is donated to those directly affected by HIV/AIDS and homelessness. But don’t expect to have your own Serendipity moment here; this shop means business. Only books in good condition are accepted to grace the shelves of this reputable establishment.

The building itself is designed for comfort and ease; there are so many tables and chairs readily available, it’s as if the store is making sure no one is without a seat. The center of the floor is stocked with $1 fiction novels and $3 “cool and quirky” reads. Two spiral staircases, reminiscent of Beauty and the Beast‘s classic library scene, lead to a second floor of study spaces and more literary genres: LGBTQ, mythology, religion, philosophy, poetry, etc. And for those with an insatiable appetite for narratives and baked goods, a quick bite from the in-house café is just what the librarian ordered.

Cafe Belle
If your sweet tooth is as strong as your love of books, visit this Mulberry Street bakery on a cheat day. If possible, try to unglue your eyes from the cannolis, fruit tarts, pignoli cookies, and powdered lobster tails to admire the store’s signature floral decor. The dainty design not only covers the walls but also the plush high-top stools, chairs, entire ceiling, and even the business cards—it was truly belle.

I asked the smiling woman at the counter which dessert was the most popular, and all she could do was put her hands up in defeat: “We don’t have just one.” After trying a rainbow cookie (a perfect balance of real almond paste, jelly, and chocolate) and a cream puff (which was like eating a sweet, airy cloud), I understood why.

7. Astoria

Astoria Bookshop
The Astoria Bookshop is the best independent bookstore in all of Queens—because it is the only independent bookstore in all of Queens (until Book Culture opens its fourth location in Long Island City). Even more shocking—I was the only customer. Being only a short walk from the R and W trains, I expected at least a small crowd. But, alas, it was only me, a wonderful selection of fiction and nonfiction titles, and a peculiar amount of Where’s Waldo decorations (probably left over from the shop’s yearly Where’s Waldo scavenger hunt) in the window.

Aside from the occasional speeding sounds of the subway directly overhead, the enchanting atmosphere of Queens’s solo indie bookshop sucked me right in. Novels are propped by elegant stands, the paper inside a powder blue typewriter reads a famous quote from Kate DiCamillo’s fantasy book The Tale of Despereaux, and white Christmas lights border the entrance, beckoning passersby like moths to a flame. Post-it notes inscribed with customer reviews of specific books are taped to the front of bookshelves, which offer a more personal touch to the shopping experience.

La Sala
This quirky cocktail haunt not only touts a hell of a tipple, but also boasts a visually arresting design with colorful vintage furnishings and antique chandeliers. I sunk into a soft upholstered seat and sipped a spiced cucumber margarita (a simple combination of tequila, lime juice, agave, and fresh cucumber). If you really want to get those creative juices flowing before taking another pass at Atlas Shrugged, ask for the mezcal old-fashioned with Gracias a Dios mezcal, agave, and mole bitters.

Walking Tour