Eat | $$$$$
It all started in a small stall in the basement of a Flushing shopping mall. Today, the local restaurant chain named after a city in northern China has spawned an impressive empire with twelve locations, all with a tasty array of simple-seeming noodle dishes that turn out to be mightily savory and mouth-tinglingly spicy. Don't overlook the cumin-doused lamb burger or the stewed pork burger. Note: Most locations only seat a few happy eaters.